After just an hour and a half ferry ride from Split we landed on the island of Hvar, which ended up being our favorite stop on the trip. I had worried that Hvar might be super touristy or that the party scene there would be intrusive, but we didn’t find either of those things to be true in the slightest. We stayed in an Airbnb apartment just up the hill from Hvar town, which we picked because it had a pool and amazing views of the town and water.
Before checking into our Airbnb we had lunch at Lola Street Food, an adorable little cafe/bar down a little walkway right off the marina. We were struck by the charm of Hvar with all of its stairways and alleyways filled with little bistro tables and outdoor seating. As soon as we checked into our Airbnb, we threw on our bathing suits and walked to the closest beach, which was Pokonji Dol, about 15 minutes down the hill. We rented some chairs under a giant palapa and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon, before heading into town for dinner.
We knew we wanted to explore the island on our second day and Hvar is fairly large with a lot to see if you have a way to get around, so we decided to rent a quad from one of the places in town. Our first stop on the quad was Dubovica beach, which is pretty much heaven on earth. Like the other beaches we’d been to on the trip, we had to hike down to the little beach cove, but we knew right away that it was worth it. It was secluded and pristine, with a beautiful stone building at one end. After swimming we went to the little beach bar, which is one of the most charming little spots I’ve ever seen -tucked away under the trees, with cozy chairs and cushions and the cutest little bar selling fresh juices, coffees and drinks. We could have stayed all day but we wanted to keep exploring, so we hiked back up to our quad as the rain clouds were starting to roll in. We made our way to Jelsa town, via the unpaved back roads through vineyards and hilltops. Jelsa was beautiful and quiet and we had a great lunch by the water before heading to the Tomic winery for a tour and tasting. After some great local wine, we ventured back out to the road and eventually the back roads (actually mountain bike paths) and made our way back to Hvar town, with stunning views of the island and the sea at every turn. Back in town, we had a lovely dinner at Ko Doma.
We’d booked an island hopping boat tour for our third day and got lucky with a small group and a brand new yacht as our ride for the day. We got to see several nearby islands from the boat and had a few stops for swimming, sightseeing and lunch. We saw the blue cave, swam in the blue lagoon and Stiniva cove, stopped for lunch on one of the Pakleni islands, and capped off the trip with a cliff jump just before returning to Hvar. We finished off our amazing day with dinner at Fig Cafe, where the Mexican flavors were a nice change of pace after tons of seafood, pasta and pizza dinners.
Having gotten all of the exploring out of our systems, we spent our last two days relaxing at the beach, reading by our pool, and walking into town for meals and drinks. For our last evening, we decided to catch the sunset at Hula Hula bar, which had fun music and great energy, and was perfectly situated for watching the most amazing sunset of our whole trip.
Hvar Restaurants & Bars
Hula Hula Bar – perfect place to grab drinks and watch the sunset
Lola Street Food – cute, casual spot with great lunch
Fig Cafe – really good Mexican-inspired food
Black Pepper – excellent dinner spot situated on an adorable stairway
Ko Doma – charming courtyard restaurant with delicious, homey Croatian cuisine and a fixed menu
Ka’lavanda – grab a table outside to have drinks and people watch