We took a 4 hour ferry ride to get from Dubrovnik to Split, which was a pretty easy and comfortable way to travel. Unfortunately I was coping with some food poisoning during the journey, so my ride was not the smoothest. The ferries are nice and clean though, and seemed to be preferable to taking the bus or hiring a driver, since if you go by land, you have to cross the Bosnia & Herzegovina border twice.
Arriving in Split, we could immediately tell it’s a much bigger city than Dubrovnik and felt like more of a “real city” in that the locals to tourists ratio is far less skewed to tourists. That’s not to say it’s better or worse, but just has a different vibe. We made our way to our Airbnb apartment that was just outside of the old town area and called it a night since we weren’t feeling too hot.
Our first full day in Split was pretty mellow because we were both recovering from being sick the previous day and night. We ventured out to walk all around the old down, zig-zagging through the little streets and corridors. It’s a really fun place to walk around with amazing architecture and beautiful little hidden corners. We did a little shopping and eventually had a light but incredible dinner at Bokeria, a bustling spot with great atmosphere.
We’d planned a tour to Krka National Park for our next day, so a guide from Croatia Dream picked us up in a car first thing in the morning and we hit the road. We lucked out because it was just us with the guide and another couple. Our first stop was the charming town of Sibenik where we walked through the alleyways and grabbed a coffee at an outdoor cafe. Then we were back on the road, headed for a quick lunch stop before Krka. Lunch was an amazing little spot just off the main road outside of the gate into the park where we drank homemade wine, and had the most amazing roast suckling pig with french fries and salad. Driving into Krka we had amazing views of the river valley and shortly after parking we got our first views of the incredible waterfalls. We followed the pathway all the way to the swimming area and made our way in to the clear, cool water. We waded in the water at the base of the falls for an hour or so, before heading back to meet our guide. Before heading back to Split we stopped for a wine tasting at an adorable little family-run winery just outside of the park. Back in Split, we headed out to dinner and drinks in the old town. We had a delicious dinner outdoors at Kitchen 5, then went to Noor Bar for cocktails.
Our last morning in Split we had a relaxing breakfast along the Riva before catching the ferry to Hvar.
Split Restaurants & Bars
Bokeria – trendy, popular spot with beautiful, tasty dishes
Kitchen 5 – excellent food and romantic outdoor seating, with one of the best cheese and meat boards anywhere
Noor Bar – small and dark with a sexy vibe and quality cocktails